The Devil’s in the Detail
6 am start from Melbourne meant we were in Hobart by 10, unfortunately the weather was grey and dreary.
Sue’s only previous bit of knowledge of Tasmania came from Chris Tarrant when She was a huge fan of his Capital Radio breakfast show. She can’t remember why but he came and broadcast the show from here, 2 things stick in her mind. 1. the terrible old fashioned jingles that they played about Hobart Tasmania, and 2 he made a BIG thing about the bridge, it’d been repaired after a tragedy caused by a ship crashing right through the centre in 1975. ANYWAY, it was one of the first things we saw and in fact drove over to reach the Capital of this Island
Too early to check in to hotel, so we decided on the furthest trip from here, to Port Arthur about 90 mins away. Grey and dreary weather followed us all the way, which never shows a place in its best light does it. Secure & dry in our Holden S6 Sedan we were fine, never mind the weather.
Love the slogan on the number plate.
So, Port Arthur is a world heritage site showcasing this former convict colony brilliantly. The modest entry price included a guided tour of the remains of the buildings with vivid descriptions of events during its ‘occupation’ . Around the site actors portrayed scenes of actual events, not too gruelling though.
Also included was a boat trip out into the bay and around the island of the dead – the graveyard – with vividly related stories, Of some of the 1100 souls apparently buried there.
The English families who lived there because the husbands & fathers were civil or military men running the colony, created a community with a church and a school and all the normal village requirements. I say they ‘created’ but actually the workmanship was all criminal labour of course.
The ladies ‘created’ a beautiful garden with favourite plants that would be grown in the UK but of course many more indigenous to the area were interspersed, as the climate wouldn’t support many UK delicates.
A fantastic experience we’ll worth a visit.
You’ll notice that the sun came out while we were there, so on the looong drive back we began to realise why lots of people had told us that it was fabulous here.
A bit of sight seeing followed by a few drinks and a seafood supper in the harbour rounded off our busy day.
It has to be said that Hobart is not what you’d call an attractive place, a bit industrial and ‘clumpy’ looking, obvs I’m sparing you those sights.
Thursday 11th Jan
We had 3 recommendations of things to do, so we decided to start with Charlie Boyle’s advice to drive/climb to the top of Mount Wellington.
Most of you’ll know that neither of us are great mountain walkers so we drove up to the highest car park and walked to the look outs from there. 😜 We’d left Hobart in beautiful 20 degrees of sun, but at the top it was blowing a gale and only 12. The tower that we’d seen clearly as we’d climbed was now shrouded in cloud
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It was 20 when we left the city but 12 when we arrived here. We were above the Cloud line but with 360 degree views, miles in every direction, despite the cloud cover it was spectacular to say the least.
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<<looking back towards the tower as we made our way down the hill it was all clear again
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very dear friend Ian had said me must visit MONA – Museum of Old & New Art. On arrival , Outside was set up for a concert, amidst some quirky architecture.
<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<Further on more quirky stuff
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mirrored entrance had a slimming effect , we liked that 👏👏
Tennis court with no net or surround?
Cement truck made of rusty metal?
Great view of Mt Wellie and the tower, from the garden, nothing crazy about that.
Inside though, some of the weirdest art you’ve ever seen. We soon went our separate ways as we have very different artistic tastes. Miraculously, though within minutes of each other, just over an hour later we both surfaced from this subterranean spectacle agreeing that it was absolutely not to our our taste (polite translation) on any level. We couldn’t get out of there fast enough.
Here’s a few examples
All very creative, But is it Art? Probably, but not for us.
Third recommendation of the day was wine tasting at Domaine A from Gavin’s brother Neil.
We found the place easily enough, only to discover that they only did tastings and not lunch, should’ve checked but hey ho!!
Gavin went ahead but Sue took an instant dislike to the supercilious lady and abstained. We’d had to wait and witnessed her speaking to the people in front of us, which is largely what Sue based her opinion on, which was endorsed further throughout Gavin’s tasting.
Their top grade Pinot Noir was apparently superb but at $100 a bottle even at the cellar door, it should be. We can understand why Neil likes it though.
Pooleys Wines just outside Richmond, was a wholly different affair. Very pleasant people all round, from the lady we did the tasting with, who later recommended where we should eat tonight. To the general manager who was really informative about not only their area but about Freycenet our next stop up the East Coast. He Even offered took our picture
Lastly the young couple we got chatting to, she’s employed by the University to research seaweed and it’s benefits and applications – seriously
Coincidentally, They were the couple who’d been in front of us at Domaine A.
Cheeky little cheese platter lunch and we’d had a very enjoyable stay. The house that the Scottish family owners built back in the 50’s was super stylish, would have been well at home in the Cotswolds
An unexpected (almost ) last stop was at the historic village of Richmond, really pretty, with the river running through it, passing the church. Built in 1823, allegedly this is the oldest bridge still in use in the whole of Australia.
Gavin also took the opportunity to get a haircut while Sue visited the cutesy shops lining the only street. Meeting up with a shorter haired Gavin for a creamy, home made ice cream. 🍨
Lastly we passed this place and it just screamed, take your pic here.
Inside the cheese was ‘most inadequate’ said Gavin after the tasting.
Friday 11th Jan We Set off fairly early for Freycenet Lodge, as there’s some stormy weather coming in, and we wanted a chance to see the place in the dry.
Quite a dull journey, unfortunately, Lots of ‘nothing but 🌲🌲’ areas, but at Rocky Hills we could see our destination on the peninsula across the water, under the cloud
An hour further on we arrived at Freycenet Lodge, and as it was barely raining yet, although very blowy, we went to see the beautiful surrounding area, in case we’re stormbound to our cabin for the next 48 hrs . Fantastic views
In the last pic you can see ‘what we could’ve won’ in different weather. Can’t win ’em all though can you.
Our hotel is behind the beach edge under the word ‘from ‘ on the last pic above. Superb location in Wineglass Bay, here’s the view from our balcony.
On the point of the peninsula sits the Tourville Lighthouse, beautiful vantage point to see the Mts, Bays & little Islands in the vicinity.
Back down towards our hotel we came to Sleepy Bay so investigated the curious rocks down there.
After hiding indoors from the rain – that actually didn’t amount to much – we enjoyed a magnificent meal in the restaurant at Freycenet Lodge and also the BEST surprise SUNSET !!!!!
Sat 13th Jan Unlucky for some ………, but despite the forecast for wall to wall rain, the sky was light and bright and showed some promise of keeping the rain at bay.
After a walk through the grounds which delivered an interesting reward
Then along the beach looking back at the hotel
Also the canoeing excursion from our hotel was leaving just as we walked across the boardwalk above them.
We decided to carry on with our plan, To visit several East Coast Wineries.
Namely, Milton, Spring Vale, Craigie Know, Freycinet & Devils corner. Gav had very small tastings at all but Devils Corner, where he tasted all they had to offer. Sue was designated driver so just had a glass of fizz at Devils Corner, and the odd tiny sip elsewhere😳
We haven’t mentioned before the difference in Reisling & Chardonnay in these parts, the Reisling is much drier and the Chardonnay is much less oaky & buttery, making them much more palatable to us than European equivalents.
In fact Craigie Know’s Reisling just won a gold award amongst rival global producers, and they are justifiably proud.
We did both indulge in an unusual tasting at Craigie Know, where they paired wine with hand made chocolates 👏👏👏
Very nice indeed,
After Freycinet we arrived at the most Beautiful setting for a scrumptious lunch at Devils Corner. The sun even shone for us and the sky cleared giving a magnificent view of the hills that form Freycinet peninsula, where we’re staying. So pleased we got to see them in their best light.
Bizarrely, within 15 mins of the video (that I took but can’t upload here -but it’s on FB) the menacing weather from our right raced into the bay and gave a totally different look to everything!!!!
Driving home in the long threatened rain though, we got an even greater surprise
We feel incredibly lucky to have been let off the hook for the 48 hours of terrible weather that we’d expected.
It’s a very beautiful and interesting part of the world and we’re very glad we came.
Sunday 14th
We awo
“https://aroundtheworldin80stays.files.wordpress.com/2018/01/img_3246.jpg” class=”size-full wp-image-1138″ height=”3024″ width=”4032″> Compared to the original forecast, we were sooo fortunate to only have had rain from tea time yesterday and all through the night.
An early breakfast and we headed to a detour that the lovely girls we met yesterday had recommended.
Beautiful seaside drive from Freycinet through Bicheno, Shelly Point, Four Mile Creek, Beer Barrel Bay, & St Helens
to arrive at the Bay of Fires, the first Bay of the famous area was Binalong,
can’t resist……..it’d BINALONG detour 🤣
but the reward was a spectacular bay and huge rock outcrops that had curious red stains, Gavin was told by a local this is caused by the lichen growing in the past?
in the last pic you’ll see Daddy carrying the canoe and a little 5 year old carrying the oar. The 5 yr old said ‘Daddy’ – Yes came the reply. I LOVE YOU said the little voice. Sooooo cute, reminded Sue of Noah, he does that to Marc all the time ❤️
ANYWAY
The area was named the bay of fires, allegedly, in 1773 by a passing sea captain, Tobias Furneaux because he saw lots of fires along the coast where aboriginal tribes were living.
We had a choice now, whether we head back 30 ish miles to St Mary and have a total journey of 2 hours to Lonnie (what the locals call Launceston) or go forward but the trip would take 2.40.
We took the longer route, and whilst we’ll never know what the scenery was like on the shorter route, it can’t have beaten our spectacular journey, where we were over 1000 m above sea level on many occasions.
We even passed over Mt Cameron so there were forces at play here.
Arriving in Lonnie, knowing that we still had almost 2 hours to our destination at Cradle Mountain, we had a quick shimmy through, saw nothing of any note except Cameron St & a very smart town hall.
We probably missed something fantastic but Ce La Vie 😳
Just over 90 mins later we arrived at Peppers, Cradle Mountain.
En route we passed by, Mount Roland and another couple of similar Mounts??.
more than once we were promised a lake by looking at the sat nav but, though we stopped on a few occasions we couldn’t actually see the water because the way through was inaccessible 😡😡
Anyway we’re in the middle of a National Park and there’s pictures in reception of lakes so we’re pretty sure we’ll see some in the next 48Hrs.
We’re nicely settled into our upgraded Spa Suite -la di da – We have a hallway, kitchen, bathroom with Jacuzzi, lounge/diner/bedroom, terrace, log burner etc.etc.
BUT no TV or WIFI as it’s all very back to nature styly.
No probs, we’ll have to talk to each other instead 🤣🤣. When we’re out of convo we’ll just watch the flames in the fire🤣🤣
Sue wrote the last paragraph before we went to the lodge for dinner, where we were lead to believe there was WiFi access. Not a bit of it, too many people after too little bandwidth 😡😡😡
Sue did manage to get connected at one point so tried to post a simple message on FB saying we’d be offline until Tuesday AM, and in a REAL emergency could be contacted at bla bla bla, but even after 17 attempts, we gave up trying to get even that sentence to upload.
Now, we feel that in 2018 this is completely UNACCEPTABLE, especially with no mobile phone signal too, Sue, especially felt very uncomfortable about the whole situation.
We were told it’s deliberate so that you can enjoy your local surroundings with no distractions.
BullXXXX
No amount of Womba
Waterfalls or wonderful scenery is going to replace being in contact with the outside world as and when you want to be.
No reason why we can’t have both, except economic ones.
RANT OVER
Monday 15th January
Rain’s rattling on the cabin roof, but are we downhearted, NO. It’s not yet 7.00 so it’ll be fine before 11.00 An old saying Sue remembers from childhood 👏.
We’re planning on canoeing today on one of the lakes we were deprived of seeing yesterday, and spotting some wombats & waterfalls and whatever else nature wants to throw at us.
So after breakfast we tried to book the Canoe trip, to find that it’s only on Tuesday, hey ho.
We thought that at the National Park Visitor Centre we’d have more luck.
‘Sure you can canoe on Dove Lake, as long as you have your own canoe’ 😫
Thoroughly thwarted on the canoeing front we have to settle for what was sold as a 2 hour, relatively easy hike, which will enable us to see 4 Lakes.
Okay says Gavin that’s fine.
Not what he said when we’d finished BTW,
Ronny’s Creek was where we began a gentle walk up a very conveniently placed boardwalk.
In front of us we saw all these hikey types with more kit than Sherpa Tensing.
Only a little way along the hikey types we’re roasting and had to keep stopping to take layers off, and add it to the tent on their backs, meanwhile we ‘sauntered’ past in shorts n Tshirts 🤣🤣. Sues theory of fine before 11 came good. 👏👏👏
The boardwalk ran out eventually but it was still quite easy terrain.
Soon we passed through a rainforest area with several cute waterfalls
More boardwalk, then scree like terrain all the way to the summit
Less than an hour after we’d started we reached the holy grail of Crater Lake. O M G what a sight, as well as a relief that we only had to come down now
Actually there was a little more climbing to do before the actual summit, but soon we reached a wide open plateau with fabulous views of 2 more Lakes. Lilla & Wombat Pool.
Breathtaking !!!!
( the views, not the walking 😜)
Sue’s posing here like she’s just conquered Everest.
Note the sign quite clearly stating that our route is to the right, Sue ( not having read the sign) blindly follows Gavin to the left – Just sayin’ 😜
A few hundred yards in, It was properly STEEP and Sue cast her mind back to the Visitor Centre lady’s description, and at no point did she mention anything like the North Face of the Eiger? When Sue asked a hikey type if we were on the right track he pointed back to the very sign She’d posed in-front of. Gavin was still sure that sign had said go this way, but you know the saying
‘the camera never lies’
Sue zoomed in on the pic, then back down we went 🤣🤣
The descent was actually harder than the ascent in many places, but we managed.
We got our first partial view of Cradle Mountain itself not long after we started to head down.
More pics later, but just to say here that it was formed around 2 million years ago by glacial activity and subsequent melts.😳
Further down we came across Dove Lake, overlooked by the mighty Cradle Mountain. Which, had we not done the 8km walk to a height of over 1150 mtrs, we could have driven to. But no ………..
But below is the BEST view of the Mountain, 1545m high BTW
What a sight !!!!! Immensely proud that we managed it, ahead of most of the hikey types that started at the same time as us too !!!!
We ate our little packed lunches that we’d hastily bought at the visitor centre & carried all the way in a plastic carrier bag.
🤣🤣🤣
Ridiculous but we had NO IDEA we’d be doing this kind of thing today, we wanted to go canoeing and drive to some lakes !!!!!! Instead we just caught a bus to the bottom of a trail and started walking
It sounds mad but we didn’t actually realise what we were coming to before we arrived, our itinerary is quite long & complex and we left some bits to our travel agent, this was one of those bits 😳
Thanks Savile Row – We know they’re reading this – it’s been marvellous, shame about the phone signal & Wifi though.
After a cooling beer back at the ranch, we headed off to see Pencil Pine falls – Perfectly Picturesque, and in our own back yard.
On this stroll we also spotted some of the local wildlife. Echidna, like a hedgehog, a Wombat, & a Pademelon (Rufus Wallaby)
No Tasmanian Devil Though 👹
Best of all, Sitting in our room we heard scratching on the roof !!! What’s that? Soon after, this Pademelon jumped down and sat on our deck, Gavin’s certain he’s looking for food, he’s been here now for a good 15 mins, wandering around, even when we go to the door to take more pics he doesn’t flinch.
Another early night ahead, for several reasons.
No TV or WiFi
It’s too hot so we won’t be lighting the fire, so no flames to watch 😜
Oh and we’ve an early start for our flight back to Melbourne in the morning.
Farewell Tassie, you’re a quirky little place, but we’ve had a wicked week.